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The New Science of Perfect Skin: Understanding Skin Care Myths and Miracles For Radiant Skin at Any Age, by Daniel Yarosh

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About the Author

Daniel B. Yarosh, Ph.D., is widely recognized as a pioneer in the science of DNA repair. He and his laboratory, AGI Dermatics, are responsible for inventing ingredients for such brands as Estée Lauder, L’Oreal, and Shiseido. His products and cosmetics innovations have been featured widely in the media, including ABC’s World News Tonight, Wall Street Journal, Vogue, Newsweek, Self, Allure, and Good Housekeeping. Visit his Web site at www.agiderm.com.

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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

ONESkin 101Along with the rest of the body, human skin has evolved over roughly 7,500 generations, give or take a few. These genetically driven changes have been fueled over the millennia by selection for what is optimal for one thing and one thing only: sex.Yes, that's right: sex, as in human reproduction.Biologically speaking, skin has the same ultimate purpose as the rest of the human body: contributing to the continuation of the species. As a result, the genes that were passed down to you and everyone you know are the good ones that produced healthy and glowing skin, protected the body, and, most of all, attracted a mate. The bad skin genes that caused disease, weakened the individual, and turned off potential partners didn't get passed on and were eventually lost from the gene pool.The way people look during the different stages of life fits in with this biological imperative. A baby's skin is soft and smooth to encourage its mother to care for it. During puberty, skin may look aggravated, angry, and out of sorts-which it is. But it's just adapting like the rest of the body to the surge of hormones and physical changes that transform children into adults. (This is, not surprisingly, little consolation to a teenager who suddenly develops terrible breakouts!)From a biological point of view, the childbearing years are when skin really counts, as people who look their best are much more likely to attract a mate. Those with clear, radiant skin get the highest marks in the gene-pool competition, so it's no wonder that the skin's genetic program is designed to reach a crescendo of health and fitness during the courtship and reproduction years. In most cases, skin in the twenties and early thirties doesn't require much more than cleansing, moisturizing, and daily protection from the sun. Remember, these are the years that generations of human evolution have selected for maximum health with minimum maintenance.Skin genes controlling shape and texture are not the only determining factor of who beds down with whom, of course, but during the mating ritual, they provide, often unconsciously and in a single glance, an enormous amount of information. A man looking at a woman will make instant judgments about her overall health, fitness, and the degree to which she possesses the "it" factor known as sex appeal. At the same time, a woman is also gathering vital information from her instant judgment about a man's looks. This was proven by a recent study at the University of California, Santa Barbara, which found that women can identify those men with higher testosterone levels and select those with high paternal quality and those who especially like infants just by looking at photographs of the men's faces.Bottom line: Skin was built for sex. Skin health peaks during the reproductive years; after that, we need help.THE SKIN YOU'RE INYour skin is a whole lot more than an inert overcoat, or something you might think of as cellular Saran wrap. It's a living thing-the largest organ of your body and one that changes dynamically over the course of your lifetime.Like most organs, skin has two main layers: the dermis, the thick layer on the bottom; and the epidermis, the thin layer of cells on the surface above.The living dermis is mainly comprised of cells called fibroblasts. These fibroblasts are surrounded by collagen and elastin fibers to form the stretchy supporting structure of the skin. The dermis is also infused with blood vessels to supply nutrients and take away waste, as well as nerves for exquisitely delicate sensation. Hair and oil and sweat glands are all anchored in the dermis and poke or wind their way out to the surface.Perched on top of the dermis is the epidermis, a layer no more than about twenty cells deep. The cells making up this layer are called keratinocytes. They divide rapidly, but they only grow up, never down. As a result, whenever a keratinocyte divides, the newer cell is always on top. Think of this process as if the bottom cells are the grandmothers, and they divide into daughter cells that in turn divide into a new generation of daughter cells. All this continual division pushes the daughters, the granddaughters, and great-granddaughters up to the surface. It takes about two weeks for newly created daughter cells to be pushed to the surface, where they're sloughed off.The very outermost layers of skin are stacked atop one another like shingles on a roof. After all the daughter cells finish dividing and reach the top of the skin surface, they flatten out, creating an intercellular cement mixture where ceramides and other lipids connect them to one another. Ceramides are lipids, a type of oil chemical. Each ceramide molecule has two ends, and each end can bind to other chemicals so that a long chain, or mesh, is formed. This network of mesh is what binds the flattened cells together to become the part of the outer skin barrier known as the stratum corneum.The stratum corneum is basically dead skin cells, but it still serves an extremely vital function: preventing water from escaping from the skin. Without the barrier of the stratum corneum, essential water would evaporate from your body like steam from a boiling kettle, and you would dry up like a raisin in a few hours. The stratum corneum barrier also keeps out invaders, like deadly bacteria and viruses. The barrier function of the stratum corneum is literally a matter of life and death.During the entire process of forming the dermis, epidermis, and stratum corneum, skin cells undergo a remarkable, genetically programmed transformation. Our genetic code, which exists in our DNA, tells our cells what to do. This is the DNA program.The DNA program is like a computer program-a series of instructions about what to do and when to do it, intended to be performed in an orderly fashion. A person's DNA program tells a cell when to make things or how to act, as well as how to change what it is doing as it gets older or how to react when it gets information from other cells.As in a computer program, if a DNA instruction is changed, the cell behaves differently. If the cell gets signals from damaged skin, or by the inevitable aging process itself, it can follow a new course of steps that are harmful to the skin. However, if we introduce special ingredients that give out new signals, we can reprogram the cell to change its course of development and change its function. This transformation, which is directed by information coded in the human genome, is the key to the New Skin-Care Revolution.Bottom line: The skin has several parts and is constantly changing under the direction of its DNA program.HOW SKIN CHANGES AS YOU AGEUntil now, aging was pretty much a steady downhill slide. Each month past those prime childbearing years seemed to add a new wrinkle and furrow, a little more drooping and sagging, strange new blotches and uneven tone, and more than a smattering of dark spots that can no longer be thought of as cute little freckles. Before you blame your parents or too frequent beach vacations, realize that both are culprits, because there are two basic ways the skin ages: intrinsic and extrinsic.Intrinsic aging is driven by the genetic code, and up until now this has been pretty much out of your control. Intrinsic aging follows a specific process:• The outer barrier weakens• DNA repair lessens• Blood flow declines• Collagen degrades• Chronic inflammation flaresFurther, the underlying fat that gives us such delicious chubby cheeks as children is absorbed, so faces look more gaunt, the bones thin, and the muscles supporting the skin weaken. Then gravity takes over and jowls form, lips thin, cheekbones jut out, earlobes sag, noses seem to grow longer, and tiny blood vessels suddenly appear on the skin's surface.Extrinsic aging is caused by factors you can control. This includes the devastating effects of the sun upon skin, called photoaging. Photoaging is without question the largest extrinsic factor affecting your skin, causing it to get thick, rough, wrinkled, mottled, flaky, saggy, and covered with spots and uneven pigmentation. I can tell people till I'm blue in the face that there's no such thing as a healthy tan-but getting them to act like it is another issue altogether! Photoaging is the easiest extrinsic factor you can control, and it's never too late to start protecting your skin from the sun.How to protect yourself from photoaging and the effects of the sun is so crucial that I've devoted an entire chapter to it. Chapter 6 is a primer on photoaging, sunscreen and sun protection, and DNA repair and is without doubt the most important chapter in the book.Other extrinsic factors are smoking, poor nutrition, stress, not getting enough sleep, and in general taking your skin for granted. The temptation is to play today and pay tomorrow, but it's never too early to start protecting your skin-now.Bottom line: Aging is caused by both your genes and your behavior.AGING IN THE CHILDBEARING YEARSOf all the stages of life, the childbearing years put the greatest strain on the body and the skin. Once a woman has reached the peak of her health and attractiveness, she is now subjected to the toughest challenge of all-preparing for and giving birth to children. During this time, sensitivity to sun and irritants increases just as the damage accumulated from the childhood years begins to appear. On top of that, in the thirties, the production of skin lipids begins to decline, weakening the skin barrier.The childbearing years usually find women in their healthy prime, but it is during this time, when a woman seems to need it least, that the biggest gains can be made in fighting aging. A little understanding of the changes driven by genes and hormones can help any woman preserve her most youthful looks.For women in their twenties and thirties, many problems related to...

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Product details

Hardcover: 304 pages

Publisher: Harmony; 1 edition (May 6, 2008)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0767925394

ISBN-13: 978-0767925396

Product Dimensions:

6.4 x 1.2 x 9.6 inches

Shipping Weight: 1.3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.0 out of 5 stars

17 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#508,551 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

This book does a great job of explaining the current state of skin care options. It is a good companion to The Skin Type Solution, which helps you figure out your skin type and design the best care regime for it, and Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, which explains all the different ingredients used in skin care products and rates their effectiveness.The New Science of Perfect Skin mostly agrees with the advice in the other two books. While the author recommends specific products, he does not explain how he chose them, making me suspect there may be many other equally effective choices out there. Although he offers a few drugstore recommendations, the vast majority of his recommendations are quite pricey. As skin-care products change so quickly, I think these recommendations will go out of date pretty quickly.

I took a look at this book as I realised what I was using was not a good idea for my skin. Also as a person in my 50's and a survivor of melanoma I didn't want to risk any more "Sales Clerks" who were only pushing products.I was pleasantly surprised to find this book was not only helpful it actually was honest. (My daughter is also a medical microbiologist and therefore I have have some one close at hand to check or confirm things). So I found the information very liberating.Now I can purchase what I need without worrying about the hype. I can ignore products I felt were a "Sham" but couldn't put my finger on why. I can also ignore the the others that are as bad as the people who poisoned people with peanut butter because they wished to preservative free! The people who are using scare tactics to get us to buy "Natural" products.I am now confident in my decisions.SO for any one who wishes to be like me informed about their own Skin Routines, I highly recommend The New Science of Perfect Skin: Understanding Skin Care Myths and Miracles For Radiant Skin at Any AgeBy Ruth Read

Overall this is a good book with a lot of comprehensive and solid information regarding skin care. It feels a little bit like a pitch for some of the author's skin care products, but it has a lot of valuable advice. Most of all, it will help you identify drug-store brands that are just as effective as more expensive skin care lines. Save yourself a lot of money trying out skin care products by buying this book first. My only other criticism is that it is a little out-of-date and that it's really only good compared to what else is out there. Someone needs to come along and write a truly scientific book on skin care that is unbiased. I also wish that it had a more comprehensive section on ACNE. This book is really good for addressing slowing aging of the skin and protecting oneself from the sun.

This book is the only one I have been able to find that gives any scientific background on skin care products at all (ironic in a multi-billion-$ market). For that, I'll give it three stars.But it's not perfect. The author is of course biased by owning his own brand of products, sure to show up in any list of recommended products, but to be fair, accompanied by competitor's products.The book does contain a bibliography, but the text never references the literature. This is a main problem with the book. Much of what it says sounds very reasonable, but we simply don't know where the author gets the different bits of information from.Btw, I don't know how some of the other people reviewing this book can conclude it's about herbal extracts. The author specifically points out that such extracts don't make any sense in skin care products. They have varying compositions, and even if any active compound is present, the amount is very low, so you're better off with a product that contains the active compound in a defined amount.

Helpful

good book

Lots of information; so much, in fact, that I couldn't take it all in, got quite overwhelmed. Requires concentration. However, still very informative. Definitely a reference book. I liked the fact that it gave options from expensive to less expensive options for each skin requirement covered.

As is the problem with all such books, there is too much to assimilate in one sitting. Having said that, the book is simple and no nonsense approach, so makes useful reading

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